So I stood in Edinburgh Airport watching my luggage disappear onto the Dublin carousel last month; I had to be at a panel on sustainable fashion in four hours. Great timing, universe.
Thanks for that. I was wearing stained coffee-colored jeans and a jumper that had seen better days, and I needed to look as if I knew what I was talking about in regard to the future of ethical fashion. The irony was not lost on me.
Jenners, the old department store that’s unfortunately closed (RIP), came to my rescue. A simple black dress and blazer combination and I looked as if I’d thoughtfully prepared my outfit instead of throwing it together in a state of panic. Cost me £180. Ouch – I normally thrift. Honestly? Sometimes you need retail that simply works.
That entire experience made me reflect on something that I don’t discuss very often in the sustainable fashion community – the somewhat strange, but underrated quality of British department stores. I know what you’re going to say – they’re not the hippest kids on the block today. Everyone’s talking about the demise of department stores, the closing of Debenhams, etc., etc. However, the remaining ones have quietly turned into something rather fascinating.
Let’s face it. Most of my time is spent evangelizing second-hand shopping, ethical brands, researching supply chains and decrying greenwashing. However, occasionally you want a properly fitting bra, a decent pair of work trousers, or a suitcase emergency occurs in Edinburgh. And you know what? Department stores are still incredibly good at addressing those issues.
John Lewis – I used to think it was just where middle-class families went to buy overpriced kettles and feel good about themselves. However, their fashion departments have undergone a quiet, unspoken makeover that I rarely hear anyone mention. Their Modern Rarity line? I purchased a silk shirt for £85 from there last year that receives compliments each time I wear it. It’s the type of item that appears as if it should cost double the amount – well cut, beautiful fabric, proper French seams. I’ve seen comparable items at Joseph for £200 that aren’t even close.
I was also surprised by their AND/OR range. I was in there looking for something basic (mistake number one – Never go to John Lewis looking for “something basic” as you’ll end up leaving with three somethings and they won’t be basic). Ended up trying on these wide leg jeans that looked far more expensive than the £65 price tag would suggest. Of course, I ended up buying them. I’m asked about them frequently since then. “Where did you get those jeans?” “Just John Lewis.” Observe the reaction on people’s faces. No one thinks that good denim is sold in department stores.
What I have come to realise about John Lewis is not just the quality of their own branded clothing, but how they choose to curate other brands. As I live in Seattle, I don’t have easy access to brands like Whistles or Jigsaw – I’d have to purchase online and deal with international shipping and returns. However, when I am back in the UK visiting family, John Lewis provides curated collections from these brands, saving me from decision fatigue. Someone has done the hard work of selecting the best items, and honestly? Sometimes I need that.
Fenwick is another hidden gem. Their Newcastle store is truly fantastic – to the point of Fashion Week levels of curation in some areas. I first discovered Ganni in Fenwick before it became the Instagram darling it is today. Their buyers appear to possess a knack for identifying brands right before they take off. Baum und Pferdgarten, Lily & Lionel, Essentiel Antwerp – brands with actual character that you won’t see in every other store.
The Fenwick on Bond Street does not receive nearly the recognition it deserves. I visited there last time I was in London and stumbled upon this Danish brand that I’d never heard of producing beautifully understated items. Not inexpensive – around £200 for a sweater – but the quality was evident, proper construction, and interesting details. That sort of find can give you the feeling of discovering something special.
I am not going to pretend to defend House of Fraser. They have clearly had a difficult time and it shows in many of their departments. However, their lingerie section? Excellent. Good sizes, brands that understand body types, knowledgeable sales staff. I purchased this Fantasie bra there that has been a total game changer – Sometimes you forget how much of a difference properly fitting underwear can make until you find it.
Let’s talk about department store beauty halls for a moment. I know that Space NK is trendier and Sephora has better Instagram credentials, however, department store beauty counters provide something that these slicker retailers typically don’t – Sales associates who have been working with specific brands for years and thus actually know what they’re talking about. The woman at the Clarins counter in my local John Lewis has likely worked there for over fifteen years. She understands skin care. When she recommends something, I pay attention.
Liberty falls into this odd category that isn’t quite a traditional department store, yet is steeped in that heritage. Their fashion floors are essentially a master class in curation. Yes, it’s expensive, but Liberty’s sale periods are the stuff of legend for a reason. I purchased this Rixo dress there during the sale period for 60% off that I continue to wear almost two years later. Sometimes investing in a piece actually is an investment. You know?
Harvey Nichols has done something interesting by shifting toward a younger demographic and more fashion-forward direction than some of its rivals. Their Leeds store specifically achieves a happy medium between aspirational designers and realistic expectations – you can locate entry-level pieces from luxury brands along with contemporary labels that won’t require mortgaging your house. Their Fuse area is ideal for locating something unique without breaking the bank.
Here’s what I have learned about department store fashion – it really requires seeing in person. John Lewis’ website is functional, but it doesn’t remotely capture how their higher-quality items appear and feel. Fabric quality, how garments fit, and the small touches that elevate something to a higher status – you miss all of that when you shop online. In this sense, these stores reward actual in-person visits, which may help explain why they are struggling in today’s click-and-shop world.
In-store fitting rooms are arguably the largest advantage department stores have. The ability to try on various brands and styles without changing clothes multiple times between different stores? The assistance provided by sales associates in bringing you alternative items? I spent an hour in Selfridges recently with an amazing sales associate who continued to bring progressively better options as she determined what I was ultimately searching for. This level of service is becoming increasingly rare, but it can create a huge difference when you experience it.
Something that department stores consistently accomplish that both fast-fashion retailers and luxury boutiques fail to is offering inclusive size options. Zara sells the trendy blazer, but assumes that no one has curves. Luxury boutiques primarily sell items in sizes 8 and 10. However, John Lewis offers a broad range of sizes in each style. House of Fraser carries the full size range for brands like Phase Eight. It makes a bigger difference than you might imagine.
There is also something to be said for the lack of pressure associated with shopping at department stores. Who hasn’t experienced that sensation in a high-end boutique where you feel as if you must purchase something, or the staff will judge you? Or the chaos of high street stores where you are shopping in survival mode? Department stores allow you to actually think about your purchases. Browse. Reflect. Take your time.
Look, I am not saying that department stores are perfect. The inconsistencies between locations can be frustrating – that incredible section you found in the flagship store may not be available at your local location. Their online and in-store experiences are often completely disconnected. Many of their departments are outdated, both in the products they sell and how they display them.
However, as someone who devotes a considerable amount of time considering sustainable fashion and ethical purchasing habits, I have grown to appreciate the value proposition that these places offer. Quality at fair prices. Sales associates with actual knowledge of the products. Multiple brands under one roof so you can compare products without having to travel throughout the city. They may not generate social media buzz or launch viral TikTok campaigns, but there is something reassuringly consistent about their existence.
